Lewis Pass to Nelson Lakes

Xmas Trip
Friday 18 January 2008 to Monday 28 January 2008 (11 days)

Second Interim Trip - ‘Another Four Pass Trip’

While the first part of the Interim trip (see March Wanderlust) had a large number of trampers, this section had a small group of four. Did this indicate something? Maybe the number of days was off-putting.
The first party couldn’t let us go unaided so walked into the Cannibal Gorge Hut (St James Walkway) with us. After lunch we got a great send-off to Ada Hut. DOC workers were hard at work on hut maintenance so we lolled around outside until their helicopter came. The huts on the whole of this trip were well kept. Thank you, DOC, you are doing a great job there.

Ada Hut to Three Tarn Pass

The valley west of the St. James Walkway was clearly visible from the hut but was rather scrubby. We were seduced by the grassy slopes but should have kept to the stream. Once the cairns were found it was straightforward. The only tramper we met while on the tracks had spent a windy, uncomfortable night by the three tarns so we elected to stay by a turquoise, snow-encircled lake before the Pass. It was a magical place abounding with alpine flowers and wonderful reflections. A snowman was made.

Three Tarn Pass to Bobs Hut

An hour’s walk took us over the easy pass down to the tarns, looking great reflecting the blue sky. The valley down the West Matukituki is spectacular with the bounding stream surrounded by daisies and white, yellow and buttery-coloured hybrid Marguerites. It was important to ignore advice about keeping to the true right. Instead we kept to the true left at the gorge and so picked up some cairns over the moraine which, with some hunting, led through the bush to Bobs Hut on a wide river flat. Another party later on unfortunately kept to the true right and spent an extra two hours negotiating the gorge high up through slips.

Bobs Hut to East Matakitaki Hut

Windfall on the track through the bush slowed progress but after one-and-three-quarter hours we came to the three-wire bridge over a spectacular canyon, then two hours on to the East Matakataki Hut. In view of a forecasted tropical cyclone for the next day, we did not push on to the base of David Saddle. The afternoon was spent painting, sleeping and wood gathering, while people started arriving. Six young Hamilton people, and later a group of five arrived from the Thompson Pass and they piled into one tent when they saw the six-bunk hut. They were serious trampers and were all gone early the next day before anyone was up.

East Matakitaki to David Saddle

The 8.30am weather forecast was rather dire for later in the day so we quickly worked up the valley to sit it out overnight in tents. The regenerating beech forest made slow going and the rain had started. We found Liz Ware’s good camping site under the last of the trees and hurriedly put up tents in cold, blustery rain and hunkered down (seventeen hours in the tents). Entertainment was viewing the numerous cascading streams.

David Saddle and D'Urville Valley

Although the saddle looked rather intimidating, we found that, by keeping to ridges and the stream, the pass was straightforward. Flaky rock gave quite a good grip and the snow was passable. Splendid views were had of the two valleys and later the really formidable route towards Thompson Pass. Cairns were sparse so the way down to the confluence of the David and D'Urville was a little picky. We passed the tiny bush bivvy in the main valley. Bad luck hit Stephen in the shape of a loose rock and his twisted ankle made the last six kilometres painful. Camp was in the beautiful beech forest and socks were dried out on a fire.

Moss Pass to Blue Lake

Decision time for Stephen. His judicious escape was down the valley to a boat ride out, luckily in the company of another injured tramper. This local couple expressed a desire to join us in 2009.
With well over the allocated 10% loss, the three remaining steadily climbed the 1045m up Moss Pass, appreciating the poled route. Lunch was admiring the view and trying not to think about ‘The Shute’ coming up. Memory did not exaggerate and it was worse going down but gorgeous Blue Lake beckoned. Who should greet us at the hut but the well-travelled and much-photographed Goofy. His minder, Mike, appeared with Heather and Dougal. It was a great reunion especially with Dougal, who had driven Big Blue around from the Lewis Pass, and it was good to anticipate having their company for a while.

Blue Lake to West Sabine

After a few hours exploring and painting the lovely surrounds of Blue Lake, the mossy track was followed down the creaming West Sabine River to the large hut.

Travers Saddle to Upper Travers Hut

Another steady climb for three of us, the others continuing down the river. At the saddle, dark, dramatic clouds were building up in contrast to the sunny day, but there was still time to lunch and explore the tarns under Mt Kehu to the right, one of them with a little island. Clouds swallowed Mt Travers and it was a race to the new, large Upper Travers Hut, nestled under the surrounding peaks. Graeme made friends with the Spaniards on the way.

Upper Travers to John Tait Hut

At first the track was similar to that from Blue Lake Hut then, at Cupola Creek, we took a detour to the gorgeous Cupola Basin, one of us staying by the deep clear gorge (painting). Tea that night was time for a clean-up of any surviving food.

John Tait to Lakehead Hut and out

As usual a bit of an anticlimax as one finishes a trip. At Lakehead Hut the loos were just about unusable due to a wasp infestation. We succumbed to the lake water-taxi and that and a reunion meal with Dougal made a good finale.

We were: Graeme McGowan, Stephen Thoms, Chris Ashton (scribe) & Noel Ashton (leader) Welcome additions: Dougal Campbell, Mike and Heather Heilbron.