Kaimanawa-Kaweka West-East Group
Week Trip
Saturday 20 February 2010 to Thursday 25 February 2010 (6 days)
This is a classic tramp. Across the Kaimanawa tops, in and out of valleys and across the Kaweka tops from Kaimanawa Rd (near Turangi) to Kaweka Rd (near Puketitiri 50 km from Napier).
Advertised as Medium-easy, there was nothing easy about this tramp. With a large section being in Air Taupo private land, tracks were not maintained and reports of tough bush-bashing had us borrowing old park maps from the 1980s and doing some serious planning. A permit ($30 pp) was required to cross private land which is used mainly by hunters ferried in by helicopter.
A crossover tramp was organised with a fit East-West group and a medium West-East group. We left Auckland Friday afternoon, 19 February, and were put up for the night by Darrell and Jose Couchman (long-time club members) at Turangi.
Darrell and Jose took us to the Umukarikari Track end (700m) and we were on our way by 8.15am. It was misty and the steady climb through the bush was pleasantly cool. The mist still swirled when we broke out onto the tops but soon cleared and by 11.30am, at 1590m, we had great views of Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Lake Taupo. We had lunch under bright blue skies on the tops and then descended to Waipakihi Hut (1100m) arriving 2.00pm. Two young, fit trampers at the hut told a horrific story of bashing through solid bush aiming to reach the Rangitikei and finally giving up. That’s where we were going! Careful questioning revealed they may have gone the wrong way so we slept easy …
Sunday 21st.We rose early and were on track at 7.00am, anticipating a long day. Climbed to 1570m just below Junction Top and found the junction markers. The old and a new signpost pointed the way to the Rangitikei. Part way down the spur, and using the old maps as guidance, we took a left-hand spur and 100m on spotted a cairn. Smiles all round. The young guys had gone right. The track to the right was actually clearer than the left but was a false animal trail. We reached the bush-line and took a breather. Ron went into the bush to recce and emerged all smiles. We were just 10m from the old track, but even better news - the track had been recently cut! More delight. From there, descending to the river was relatively easy going. The river was low and we crossed after spotting a marker 50m downstream. Ron rushed into the bush to see if the track to the tops was cut. More delight! It was a solid climb from the river (1000m) to the tops (1300m) but had the track not been cut, it would have been very tough. Stopped for lunch on the tops. A magnificent day, not a cloud in the sky, so it was going to be hot going for some time. From now there were no poles and it was a case of follow the tops. Headed past Te More (1455m) and then towards peak 1536m. Some 300m before 1536m we made a big sidle to the ridge at 1466m. We took a break before climbing Te Wetenga’s west ridge. A tough climb to 1750m and then a welcome sidle to the eastern ridge, avoiding the ascent to the summit (1868m). Followed the ridge east then south-east and finally south before dropping down an easterly spur to the river flats of Mangamaire Stream on DOC land. A very weary group after 11½ hrs on the track in very hot conditions. Early night!
Monday 22nd.Another blue-sky day. On track at 8.30am with a climb from Mangamaire Stream (1070m) up the Puwerawera Ridge to 1250m following old cairns. Dropping off the top, Memory Map track indicated we should skirt the first piece of bush and then head directly to the main body of bush that covered the slopes down to the Mangamingi Stream. No track, no markers but, on arriving at the bush edge, a quick recce and again we were within 10m of the old track (white Venetian blind markers). Was this luck or good management? The latter, of course!
The track was not cut but was relatively open and we had no problem keeping pretty much on course. We hit the Mangamingi and walked the stream for a while until we struck flats. Then it was a mixture of stream walking and flats until we reached open flats and a hunters’ hut. The hunters were out hunting, leaving behind a mess so we had no appetite for lunch there and went further downstream. We continued down to the confluence with the Ngaruroro and to Boyd Hut, arriving at 3.30pm.
Another blue-sky day. Left the hut at 7.30am, heading for Harkness Hut. Two km south then across the Ngaruroro and east from a junction climbing to 1254m before descending to Tussock Hut, arriving 10.00am. Two hunters at the hut put the billy on and made us very welcome with a feed of sausages, corned-beef sandwiches and Tim Tams! Being hungry trampers we weren’t shy!! We waited for the East-West group to arrive (we had agreed to meet on radio sched the night before) and then swapped stories and track info. Left at 11.30am and headed down the Harkness River Valley. Good travelling in tussock and then along the stream. In the later part we crossed the stream at least a dozen times, mid-calf deep. This later section is narrow on both sides and in heavy rain could quickly become dangerous. Then up to Harkness Hut (1000m) arriving at 2.00pm. A lovely spot on a warm, sunny afternoon.
Wednesday 24th.An overcast morning, clearing throughout the day. Left the hut at 7.40am heading for Tira Lodge on Venison Tops. Down and across the stream and then a grunty climb to Te Pukeohikarua (1500m). We dropped down to the hut for a break and then through the beech forests with lots of ups and downs of 50-100m. Reached Mangaturutu at 12.45pm for a long lunch. Great views of the Forest Park from near the hut. Headed for Tira Lodge at 1.45pm and after a 200m descent, followed by a 200m climb, we reached Venison Tops and the hut at 3.15pm. Sunny afternoon ideal for a walk on Venison Tops (1490m). Being ahead of our original plan, we decided that we would go to Back Ridge Hut the next day and Mackintosh Hut the following night before coming out. The forecast was for rain developing late Thursday and clearing Friday so we planned an early start. However the rain gods had other ideas…
Thursday 25th.We set off at 7.30am in overcast conditions with light mist and moderate winds, heading toward the Kaweka Range tops. Dropped to 1200m and then climbed to 1500m and the bush line. By now the wind had increased to 30 k and it was raining. Took a breather at the bush-line and headed towards Whetu (1650m). The wind and rain continued to increase and we were down to 50m visibility. The Kawekas at 1600m are very exposed to the westerly now hammering us side on. Stopped briefly to put in GPS coordinates for the track junctions and soldiered on in continuously worsening weather, with winds reaching gale force - we found standing difficult at times. Wet and tired, we were now faced with a significant decision. Turn right to Back Ridge and face into the teeth of the storm for an hour or more, or turn left down the Makahu Spur with the wind behind us and a Taupo motel unit with hot springs beckoning.
The hot springs were great!!
This is a truly magnificent tramp and the club should consider repeating it in a couple of years’ time. For me there is unfinished business as the Kaweka Range looks fantastic on the map... which is mostly all I saw!
